International cuisines

Pizza

Pizza

    Those supremely thin, hearth-blistered pizzas coming out of upscale pizzerias these days? We love ‘em, but trying to replicate the conditions of an 800-degree wood-fired oven in your kitchen is a good way to meet your local fire department. Enter the Grandma pie, that rectangular number you’ve likely spied at any old-school pizza joint. Done right, it has all the flavor and complexity of its artisanal cousin: an olive oil–crisped bottom; a pillowy-soft middle; and a rich, cheesy top cut by zippy sauce. 

The best part? The Grandma is the most reliably delicious pizza you will ever make at home. Prepared in a standard sheet pan and baked at a home-oven-friendly temperature, this pie is as welcome at your next cocktail party as it is at a Sunday supper. And since it’s equally tasty room temp or straight from the oven, it’s a natural for do-ahead entertaining. To unlock the Grandma’s secrets, we visited Frank Pinello, owner of Brooklyn’s aptly named Best Pizza. He helped us create an at-home pie recipe so good, so simple, you’ll wonder why thin was ever in

1. Go (Dough) Nuts

This dough cold-ferments overnight in the fridge. The extended rise time gives the crust a nutty, developed flavor and a great chew. Says Pinello: “It’s the difference between a decent pizza and an incredible pizza.”

2. Get Saucy

The acidity of this no-cook tomato sauce talks back to all that cheese and olive oil, while anchovies (the secret weapon) bring a “what’s that?!” depth. “My grandmother put anchovies in everything,” Pinello says. Why argue with Nonna?

3. Put It All Together

A classic Grandma—just sauce and mozzarella—flips the usual script: Add cheese before sauce. Master this basic pie and you’re ready to improvise (see below for ideas).

4. That Topping Game

When it comes to toppings, restraint is key. “It’s all about ratio,” Pinello says. “You want them to work with the crust, the sauce, the cheese—in balance.” We’ll even lose the sauce sometimes to make white pies. Here are four of our favorite ways to go Grandma.

A. Black Olive and Provolone Grandma Pie 
Oil-cured olives are quite salty, and we love their chewy texture, but you can use brined black olives if you prefer.

B. Roasted Cauliflower and Ricotta Grandma Pie 
Precooking the cauliflower and breadcrumbs means they will get toasty and crisp as the pie bakes. An extra step, yes, but well worth it.

C. Hot and Sweet Soppressata and Fennel Grandma Pie 
If you prefer a spicy pie, use twice as much hot soppressata and none of the sweet type.

D. Spicy Tuscan Kale and Ricotta Grandma Pie 
Feel free to substitute other types of kale, such as curly or Red Russian, but make sure to pre-dress and massage the leaves as noted in the recipe.